The Successful Talent: Tips for the Actor & Model

WITHOUT DIANA VREELAND

Diana Vreeland was recently fired from her position as editor at Vogue for suggesting yet another wild idea -- to print an issue backwards so it read like the magazines from Japan!  While it might have been challenging to read, it definitely would have followed suit and captured the attention she has been known to draw.

Who better to have as an ICON than Diana Vreeland? If it weren’t for her, we would be missing a lot of flavor in the world of entertainment.  You see she was a pioneer in her day using the first black models, kicking off the ‘Youthquake’, putting the first fully nude woman in Vogue (Marissa Berenson at that) and launching the careers of countless designers not to mention creating fashion exhibits at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that are still inspiring curators. So who knows, without her vision others may not have followed.

Her ‘Why don’t you’ column at Harpers Bazaar and then editor position at Vogue were mind blowing moments in fashion. She ruled the fashion roost with her quick quips, in depth fashion history knowledge and outrageous thought process not to mention her famous blue-black hair, kabuki inspired makeup and massive statement jewelry. Lipstick Queen founder Poppy King considers Vreeland as “the Dorothy Parker of fashion. She brought wit, intellect and cachet to what can be a frivolous activity but in her hands was magical.”

But one part of her work people don’t give her credit for was her empowering of women. She told women during WWII to work with what they had and add a little pizzazz. In the 60’s she showed Twiggy as not a silly young girl but as someone powerful and worth watching and she made the eccentric the coveted look at Verushka, Penelope Tree and Cher. Hardly conventional beauties but they captured the zeitgeist of their time.

Diana (Dee-ana as she pronounced it) and her dashing husband Reed were great social figures in New York as well. They would entertain everyone from Noel Coward to Truman Capote and Jack Nicholson in their Park Avenue apartment swathed in red, which Vreeland used to call her ‘Garden in Hell.’ Set designer Anne Koch has a great fondness of DV’s interior esthetic, “More is more! Ms. Vreeland created her own interior dreamscapes, we would have been great friends I suspect.”

She was also a friend to everyone from Josephine Baker to Chanel and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. But don’t think she was all high society, Joey Ramone was so excited by her he wore leopard bracelets in her honor (she had her office at Vogue carpeted in leopard).

Luckily for us she is back in the fashion fold this month with the recently published book, The Eye Has to Travel, compiled by her grandson's wife, Lisa Immordino Vreeland. Lisa also has produced a movie about DV making the rounds at the film festivals. We are painfully waiting to see the full flick but will be content with the preview provided to a private audience.  (The YouTube link has since been made private, so you'll have to wait a little longer if you didn't already catch it.)

 We thank Ms. Vreeland for being so forward thinking, for supporting new talent and for simply being totally bonkers. We need more editors like that in the world.

CRYSTAL RENN TAKES ON VOGUE JAPAN

Japan remains on the cutting edge of fashion, expressing a darker side to beauty.  Models.com featured the dark beauty of supermodel Crystal Renn in Vogue Japan's latest spread shot by superstar photographer Giampaolo Sgura.  When it comes to content, Vogue Japan is always audacious: diva themed editorials are par for the course, but Crystal Renn never fails to add her own panache. With bright makeup by Jessica Nedza and a host of equally vibrant ensembles chosen by Anna Dello Russo , Crystal looks stunning in Giampaolo Sgura‘s lush images.

Breaking rules can lead to some really great ideas, not to mention a fun campaign!  Editorial shoots are known for their serious and dark portrayals of fashion models.  But take model Kristina Salinovic's fun new spread in Vogue Paris, for example.  The usual brooding demeanor she's known for was replaced with personality to boot and featured on models.com's Daily Feed!

Kristina Salinovic brings her dimples to the pages of Vogue Paris in an unusually upbeat story by David Sims. Cheerful girls smiling and jumping seems worlds away from what we expect to see in VP, but we can’t help but be won over by Kristina’s enthusiasm. Emmanuelle Alt‘s precision styling hones in on a series of coveted pieces, from Dolce & Gabbana omnipresent star prints to a chic Balmain jumpsuit.

THE FASHION MODEL

The fashion model is the most publicized type of model in mainstream society.  She is the awkwardly tall and unnaturally thin figure missing the usual female curves.  The point in this body style walking the runway is to keep the focus on the clothing being showcased – and what better way to do that than to find a human wire hanger?

Fashion models are not all Gisele look-a-likes, though.  A beauty model may have enticing features, be perfectly symmetrical, and have the statuesque figure.  Editorial models, on the other hand, are likely to have more unique or interesting features.  Both fashion models can be found gracing major ad campaigns or walking the runways.

Female fashion models generally start working in their mid to late teens and are already at 5’9” or taller.  The average working model has balanced measurements (34-24-34 for example).

The fashion industry, although the smallest percentage of modeling work, is the most publicized and advertised, making it the most coveted form of modeling for it’s prestige and exposure.

Quick!  Know the answer?  How much did Cindy Crawford get paid to be on the cover of Mexican Vogue recently?

INTERVIEW WITH NY AGENT, NOLE MARIN

Nole Marin, top New York agent and founder of AIM Model Management shares his thoughts with journalist Emily Rogers on where his career started, the highlights, and what motivates him today. 

 

What were the greatest obstacles you faced on your rise in the fashion world?
The way I see it, any setback is two steps forward because that means you are learning something. Every time you fall down you must realize that this is actually a time to grow.

What advice do you have for an aspiring model?
Be completely honest with yourself. Look at the industry (such as magazines and websites) and how the measurements and body structures of models compare to your own. You do not need to have a generic look, but you do NEED certain qualifications.

I school all my models and teach them everything about the industry. If they are smart, they will soak it all in. For example, there is a time to work and a time to play. Do not party before a show and do not let your clients see you partying. Models must be careful of their image. No one is going to pay thousands of dollars for a Mercedes that they see driving through the dirt and mud.

It is your choice if you choose to take advantage of the tools to success and apply them to your life, or not. Modeling is all about being your own business. Your level of success is all up to you.

It is important to dream BIG. After all, who told you to dream so little? The world is full of negativity and doubts. If you allow that to override you, it will eat you up and spit you out. As soon as these types of thoughts enter your mind, you need to push DELETE. Every day when you wake up, there will be challenges, but the energy of the world will not give them to you if you cannot handle them. There is always lesson to be learned and you may not see if now, but months from now you will look back and think, “I made it through.”

You have to know what you want and see yourself achieving your end goal.

What was it like being a judge on America’s Next Top Model? What was it like working with Janice Dickinson?
I had a great time. I was working with great friends and making a difference. I was honored to be part of the show. Viewers got a kick out of the disputes between Janice and me, but Janice is an amazing woman and we knew what we were doing. We knew that it was good comedy for the show.

Who are your role models?
Life is about finding people that inspire you.

My biggest role model was my friend Claudia who I met when I was 15 years old. She was a model/actress and was actually one year younger than me. Meeting her was like water finding the beach. We knew we were soulmates within the first few days of knowing each other. To this day, I have not met someone that I felt such a connection to; it was unreal.

Claudia taught me that I was not crazy to dream. She believed in me and she helped me to believe in myself. Although she was tragically killed in a car accident a few years ago, she is still my mentor to this day.
Family and friends are amazing but they can often be afraid to support you because of their own fear of seeing you fail. By being afraid that we may experience pain, their fear can actually hurt us more. Because of this, there are only a few people in this world who actually allow themselves to dream and to reach their potential.

What has been your fondest career memory thus far?
I have a few great memories; to have one is so limiting!

Claudia Schiffer was the first person to help me with styling. She nurtured my styling skills and helped me find myself as a human in fashion. She took me to the VH1 Fashion Awards for my first red carpet event and I remember thinking how wild, interesting, and powerful this experience was.

Also my work with Tyra Banks for my television debut and working with Grazia Riverditi of Glow Artists were great memories. Both women taught me so much.

Another fond memory came after filming ANTM, when Jay Manual and I were visiting Japan. We were just standing on a street corner and a group of young school girls ran up to us asking for our autographs. We were both thinking, “What is happening? I guess we are famous?”

Lastly, there was a time when a 16 year old kid randomly came up to me and expressed how much he admires me, looks up to me, and listens to all my criticism. He said that he really respects who I am and his statement brought a tear to my eye. I was not aware how much I was changing young kids’ lives.

SET THE STANDARD!

The recent blog post covering Alberta Ferretti’s spread shot by Steven Meisel garnered some strong responses and opinions on the subject of health and beauty.  It was great to hear so many people speak out, although privately, in support of healthy models and the mass media.  But it raises the question, “who is setting the standard?”

The industry standard for both models and actors is lead by the overwhelming physical judgment placed on artists and their work.  For models especially, the world of fashion has had some outspoken proponents in the effort of redefining how women view themselves and their body image.  It’s a serious concern and one well-worth exploring, but we’ll save that for another blog.  If we stick with the facts, we know that the industry standard for models is, for women, taller than 5’ 8” who have measurements near a size 0-2 and perfectly symmetrical features.  Contrast that fact with the average woman, who is a size 14 and stretches to reach 5’ 4” and we admit to circulating unrealistic body styles in our national media. 

So who decides that the size 2 is beautiful?  Before we take a stab at answering such a loaded question, let’s consider the chain reaction of the marketing world.  The #1 rated supermodel internationally right now is Lara Stone who is 5’10” and has a 35 in hip with a 24 in waist.  Does this suggest why Lara is rated the top female model today?

The bottom line is that advertising agencies want to sell product.  If a cover model spawns high sales, she will continue to be featured.  Who buys the magazines?  We do, as a population.   If we are the ones purchasing and therefore leading the advertising agencies to continue the trend that we are also attacking as being unhealthy, who can we say is setting the standard?

My personal beliefs on the industry standard are not expressed in this blog post, but I am acknowledging the outcry for healthy body images.  As a company, The Avenue is also partnering with The Network, whose focus is to change the world and industry by promoting models who can act as role models.  Setting a standard of healthy body styles and giving back to the community are two important aspects of beauty, too!  As a decision maker, you have a choice, too.  Will you choose to continue the trend or will you choose to be an agent for change?

WHAT'S IN YOUR CLOSET?

Are you dressing for success?  An actor or model with too limited a wardrobe is like a chef without a knife!  We work in an image industry and talent who present themselves in person the way that the industry likes get farther and work longer. 

For those beach bum readers, my heart does go out to you.  I’m a bum at heart and making myself dress up on days when I will be seeing clients is challenging.  (One of the high points of being an agent is being comfortable when it comes to style!)  But the bottom line is that every human being – that’s right, EVERYONE – makes judgments within the first five seconds they lay eyes on you.  Is that client’s judgment going to be in or against your favor?

I can see you thinking now . . . “Of course I look nice for my castings and bookings” and I’m glad to hear it.  But what about those times that you run into a casting director meeting your girlfriend for a sob story breakup over coffee?  And what sort of permanent judgments will the producer you met at your son’s soccer game remember the next time (s)he sees you on tape?

No one is going to look glamorous all the time, granted.  But taking into account how you appear every time you are in public is important.  As humans, we are drawn to other healthy looking people.  Since there are production people who could be hiring you in many of the same places you frequent, leaving them with a positive impression is to your advantage!

CAN A PLUS SIZE MODEL BE A VOGUE MODEL?

Not only is plus size model Robyn Lawley talented and beautiful, but she's also featured on the cover of Italian Vogue (shot by Steven Meisel)!  Here she speaks with Betty Sze (models.com interviewer) about her start in Australia, moving to New York, and embracing the phrase "plus size model" in any industry of waifs.  Cheers to Robyn for not only being beautiful to look at, but also for courageously going against the grain to show the world healthy beauty.  And equal cheers to the cutting edge Italian Vogue for embracing the full figured vigorous model!

 

 

RAW

MODELS.COM recently launched a daring online exhibition in honor of Viva Model Management's new London office by featuring their models in the raw.  The Dove campaign video shown in the earlier blog "Who Am I As a Talent?" exposed the power of marketing, makeup, photography, and editing.  Here, we get to see the natural skin, personality, and even catch the twinkle that makes these models note-worthy.

Train your eye to see what the industry sees.  None of these faces have makeup.  Nor have these models been styled or had their hair done.  Some faces are downright beautiful, whereas others are interesting.  The models featured in the original article on models.com are commercial, lifestyle, fashion, and editorial faces.  Natural clean skin and hair, which leaves only their personality to stand out!

 

 

 

As a model, have you tried taking raw digitals like these images above?  Even if the client likes your book, they will ask for digitals.  If your digitals don't compare to these, take note of the differences and try, try again!  Practice makes perfect, but what makes a perfect natural, beautiful, and raw digital image like these?

THE DIVA - NAOMI CAMPBELL

Naomi Campbell is a household icon in the world of fashion and rarely agrees to sharing her personal thoughts and life with the public.  But recently, photographer great Francesca Sorrenti sat down with Naomi for an intimate interview.

Francesca reminisces the first time she met Naomi.  It was via her son who was dating Kate Moss at the time.  The first thing she noticed about Naomi lead her to the thought, “Here is a woman who exudes glamour from head to toe”.  In Naomi's first season of shows in Paris and Milan, Francesca accounts that when Naomi appeared on the runway that the crowd gave a collective gasp and the room began to buzz.  She is still captivating people today.

Fearless and confident, Naomi's images have also been known to create a buzz.  One image in particular was the cover of LOVE Magazine in 2010.

Growing up have you always loved Fashion?
I think so, you know growing up in London you got to see so much happening all the time, Rifat, Body Map, there were so any others all around me.

How do you view the Internet and fashion?
Well that’s how the world is today, isn’t it? It’s a great tool for corporations and sales. People get to read what’s going on in the world of fashion and give their opinions right then and there.

Do you have any aspirations in fashion going forward?
One day I would like to display all that I have collected through my career, like a time capsule up for the viewing. It will speak for itself.

Didn’t you do a special edition for Russian Vogue last year?
Yes! It was my 25th Anniversary in the business and I worked with the Editor in chief of RV on that issue. I worked with Steven Meisel, Solve Sundsbo, with Russian photographer, Danil Golovkin, Matt Owen. We really had so much fun putting it together.

Who is your favorite designer?
Now that’s a very difficult question to answer, I’ve grown with so many people, Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, Azzedine, Karl, there’s Gianni Versace, Ozbek, Dolce & Gabbana, and I love so many of the young new designers. This again is a very difficult question to answer. So many of them have been so supportive of me and my growing and great to me in my career, I have also created so many great personal relationships with any them.

Favorite photographers?
This is another hard question, there’s again so many I have worked with that have been there for me from day one since I came to New York. I love how each and every one of them has depicted me differently; it’s a different side of your persona that they have captured. I like when I don’t look like myself.

You are involved in many charities, what’s your latest endeavor?
Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of Vogue Italia and I will be sponsoring Fashion for Relief Japan Appeal 2011 on May 16th at the Cannes Festival.

Do you have any advice for the young “new faces” in the business?
Try to stay true to yourself and stick to your roots and your friends that you have come into the business with you and who have stayed true to you. Try to stay focused on your goals and not be deterred from them.

The Met Ball, how was it?
It was fun, in the beginning it was a bit sad but than I thought Lee would be very proud. I felt it was a definite celebration of him.

What is your favorite perfume?
As you know I have my own fragrance for the past 12 years, and I love Molecules.

What do you most dislike about yourself?
My feet.

Who is the person you most admire in the world?
Nelson Mandela.

What is your biggest regret?
I haven’t got any. I think that everyone needs to take their path in life.

What personal possession do you most value?
Crystals.

Your favorite color?
Purple.

What is your biggest fear?
Roller coasters, jet skis.

If you could change the world?
I would free the world of AIDS and cancer.